Making It Last 101

Keep it Looking New!

noreply@blogger.com (Tony Orkrench) — Fri, 29 May 2009 19:03:00 +0000

Keep Your Car Looking New

Keeping your ride on the road and running great means taking care of services like oil changes and tire rotations. However, a car that runs great, but looks like junk is no fun to drive! How do you keep that ride looking new? What do you need to do to keep it smokin' hot?

If you're wondering how to doll up your ride, we've got the info you need! Keeping that ride sleek and sexy means taking care of the inside and the outside. Here, we'll break it down for you.

Exterior –

The outside of your ride should be sleek and beautiful. That means washing it – the rain doesn't count! Wash that vehicle at least once every two weeks – if you live in a dusty environment, you'll want to do it more often, though. It's also important that you find a wash that doesn't leave a waxy residue – any waxing should be done by you, not your soap!

Soap Tips –

• Don't use dish soap – your ride is not a greasy frying pan!

• Use formulated auto soaps – these have the mildest detergents and won't ruin your paint!

Waxing is important – it's what protects that sparkling paint job and keeps it from turning dingy, dull and drab. You should wax your ride at least three times per year – you can doll up your ride every day if you want, though. Wait! Before you rush out and get a tub of ordinary wax, consider a few things. Get a wax that offers sealant for your paint. Polymer-based waxes give you the best protection and none of the drawbacks found in regular wax.

Wax Tips –

• Wax that ride often – especially if you live in a harsh area.

• Clean it first – never, never wax a vehicle if you haven't thoroughly washed the thing first!

• Be prepared – to apply wax more than once if you've been a bit neglectful!
Tire shine can also be an important part of saving your ride's looks. If you search around a bit, you'll find products that offer a great wet-tire look, but also provide your tires and wheels with UV ray protection.

Tire Shine Tips –

• Spinoff – Get a shine product that doesn't spin off. Nothing looks worse than oily spinoff all over your fenders!

• UV protection – is an important part of making your tires last and keeping those rims in top shape.

Interior –

The inside of your ride needs to look just as good as the outside. Stepping into a shoddy interior after looking at a "cherry" exterior is a letdown, isn't it? Keep it clean! How do you go about it? The first thing you should do is apply some fabric protectant. Whether you've got cloth seats or supple leather upholstery, this stuff is important.

Protectant Tips –

• Get something that lasts – pay for a top brand name. Top quality protectants help you doll up your ride and keep it smokin' all the time! It also extends the life of your leather, vinyl, dash and trim.

• Clean it up – just because you've got protectant on your upholstery, it's no excuse to be lazy about the cleaning!
Dust is also an enemy. It invades the cracks and crevices, coats your dash and even gets into your audio system. Insidious doesn't even begin to describe it! Get a clean rag, the right cleaner and go to town!

Dusting Tips –

• Dust from the top down – otherwise, you'll just stir up more dust and have to do it all over again!

• Q-Tips – are great for getting into those hard to reach spots.

• Do it regularly – and you'll have a smokin' hot ride, inside and out!

Mats and carpets can sure get dirty and stained. A good shampoo a couple times a year combined with regular vacuuming can go a log way.

Carpet Tips-

• Vacuum – remember the dust buster? A portable vac makes the job quick and easy way better then lugging out your household vacuum.

• Shampoo – Just like soap buy one designed for carpets! And pre treat those stains.

• Fabric Guards – as Tony the Tiger would say…. they’re GREAT …. Get some Scotch Guard or similar product and spray it on a few times a year it makes cleaning those carpets soooo much easier.

• Dyes – If you’ve abused those mats and carpets for too long and you just can’t get them clean a little dye can do the trick. You can pick up a can of dye and spray it on just like paint. Now you’ll never get a perfect color match to the original but it will sure look better then ugly stains and a whole lot cheaper than new carpets.

• Replace – Mats are cheap –after market ones at least – replace them and if you live in a snow belt buy a cheap set for winter so you don’t ruin your good factory ones. Carpets on the other hand cost a lot and are tough to change so try the dye and for Pete sake take care of them.

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A Blown Engine

noreply@blogger.com (Tony Orkrench) — Fri, 29 May 2009 18:59:00 +0000

@&*#@%! A Blown Engine, Now What?

You're driving calmly down the road, minding your own business, when suddenly it happens – a hideous sound comes from the engine and smoke billows from under the hood. You're no mechanic, but you can tell it's not good.

Obviously, the first step is to get off the road – the shoulder isn't the safest place in the world, but the blacktop is no place for a smoking ride. Now that you're safely out of traffic, chances are good you are going to pop that hood and stare angrily at the engine.

You may or may not notice any damage. Without experience with these things, you can be up a creek without that proverbial paddle. Your next step is going to be having the vehicle towed to a mechanic shop, where you will sit, feeling betrayed by your once-trusted ride, until the mechanic can provide you with a diagnosis. Get that warranty information out while you're waiting. What, you don't have coverage? Uh-oh.

It feels a lot like waiting for the doctor to pronounce sentence. Finally, the mechanic emerges from the back, shaking his head. Your heart sinks like a stone. It's a blown engine, he tells you. It's going to cost $4,000 just to get back on the road!

The mechanic tells you a connecting rod was "slung" and now your engine block has a cool new piercing. In short – you're stuck – unless that warranty kicks in.
How in the heck are you supposed to come up with that kind of money? Seriously, $4,000 for an engine repair? You could pick up another used car for less money than what the mechanic wants to fix your old one. Should you bother? Should you even try to come up with it, or is it time to hang it up and get a new ride? Is that old clunker worth the cost?

If you have a good warranty, chances are you're set. You'll have to pay a deductible and the warranty will cover the rest. If you don't have a warranty, you're probably kicking yourself right now. Seriously, a high-mileage warranty can save you tens of thousands of dollars in the case of a blown engine.

In fact, a decent used car warranty can protect your wallet and get you back on the road in short order. If you don't have one of these handy deals, you're going to be stuck between a rock and a hard place. Can you afford to pay 4 G's just to get back on the road? If you can't, you're going to have to buy a new vehicle. You can't even limp home with that rod sticking out of the engine block!

We all know buying a new car is just going to saddle you with another car payment. Even if you get a used car instead of a new one, you'll still be shelling out major bucks to get back on the road.

A better option would have been to invest in an inexpensive used car warranty – that doesn't mean cheap, though! Affordable warranties protect you from hugely expensive repair bills and can help you get back on the road sooner. If you don't have warranty coverage, you may just be hoofing it for a while!

Can you get an extended warranty that's worth the cost? Absolutely, you can protect your vehicular investment easily – when you find a quality warranty.

You can tell the mechanic to hash it out with the warranty company – but only if you have a high-mileage warranty protecting you. Think of it like a bulletproof vest – it works great, but only if you have one!

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Green up your car for less!

noreply@blogger.com (Tony Orkrench) — Tue, 19 May 2009 10:47:00 +0000

It's a green, green world – and that can include your car. Do you want to help protect the environment, but not want to spend a ton of cash? It doesn't have to cost a fortune and you don't have to drive a Prius, either! Let the tree-huggers have their hybrids – you can make a positive impact without the hype or the payment. As a bonus, going green saves gas, gas=cash in my book and the more I save the happier I am.

What’s the best ways to green up your ride? We'll break it down for you here.

1. Oils Well That Ends Well – No, you don't have to burn vegetable oil – but what you choose to run in your ride does make a difference. Synthetic oil is a better choice for the environment – and it lasts longer in your engine! Yes, it's more expensive per oil change, but the savings in oil change frequency gives you massive greenbacks – not to mention the impact on your world.

2. A Breath of Fresh Air – Part of greening up the world is cutting down on your fuel usage. How do you do that – short of not driving at all? Changing that air filter can give you immensely better fuel consumption and green up your vehicle. Give your ride the breath of the fresh air it needs – Bonus - you'll spend less money at the pump, too!

3. Idle Engines Are the Devil's Playground – The "devil" in this case is fuel consumption and emissions. When you let your engine idle – even for a few minutes – you launch an immense amount of exhaust into the air. You also dump gas into the engine with no result. If you'll be out of your vehicle for more than a few seconds, cut it off! Idling wastes fuel, increases toxic exhaust gases and depletes the greenness of your wallet!

4. Drive Less, Save More – How many errands do you run each week? Add to that the amount of time spent commuting. Now add any extracurricular activities. Add in "emergency" driving – running out of cold ones in the fridge counts as an emergency, right? That's a lot of driving! Cut it down – you'll be surprised by how much more green you have in your wallet and how much you green up your driving habits.

5. What Does Your Ride Weigh – The heavier your ride, the more fuel it burns. Obviously, this applies to SUVs, tractor-trailers and enormous battleship-type vehicles. It also applies to the 10 tons of junk in the back of your ride. The clutter and bric-a-brac of everyday living that pile up to your ears cheats you of fuel mileage. Not only that, it puts a greater strain on your engine and increase wear and tear. Gut your car – no, put the seats back and leave the carpet alone. Take out the bowling ball, golf clubs, and other extraneous weight and you'll save, and green up your ride.

6. Reduce Your Resistance – No, it's not an alien invasion – no green men are demanding to be taken to your leader. It's a new type of tire – low rolling resistance tires. They're made of harder stuff than your average tire, thus giving you better fuel economy. You'll also find they last a lot longer, give you more savings. I’ll warn you though some people say they ride different so take a ride first.

Do you have to be a card-carrying eco-prophet? No, but you'll be able to green up your automobile with these simple steps. Of course, feel free to go as green as you like, but you don't have to be the next Al Gore.

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Oil, Oil, Everywhere!

noreply@blogger.com (Tony Orkrench) — Mon, 18 May 2009 00:23:00 +0000

I'm sure you're familiar with oil – "black gold, Texas tea." Today, oil isn't really black – unless you've just stumbled on a pool of crude oil in your backyard. In that case, congratulations – you're now rich. For the rest of us, we'll have to settle for the bottled variety. Row upon row of different weights, types and constituents await you at your local auto parts store.

No one contests the importance of oil – not changing your oil is the quickest way to murder your ride. Having your oil changed on a regular schedule is obviously important. It keeps your engine lubed and running right giving you peace of mind. If you're like most of us, keeping that ride running is more than important.

When it comes time for an oil change, knowing what type of oil you need is important, obviously. Even more than knowing you like your whiskey on the rocks or your vodka with a twist, you'll need to know what "flavor" of oil your ride needs.

What? Isn't motor oil the same thing? You mean there more differences than the color of the bottles or the brand on the front? Yep – your choices in motor oil are now more confusing than trying to figure out a politician's stance on taxes.

Discovering the type of oil you need might be somewhat difficult. In some cases, a simple glance under the hood can tell you. Some automakers have taken to putting the required oil weight on the oil filler cap. Use this, rather than what you think your ride should use. Remember, chances are your automaker knows a bit more about the engine than you do.

Of course, if your oil cap says nothing more than "oil" or you find yourself in special circumstances, you'll need to know what's out there. Here's a rundown on what you'll find.

0-Wieght Oils – These are the thinnest of the thin and are usually used in high-performance applications.

5W-20 – Usually a conventional/synthetic blend, this is a very lightweight oil used in 4-cylinder engines. Honda is famous for using this in their vehicles.

5W-30 – Available as conventional or full synthetic, this is a little heavier than 5W20, but still a great choice for smaller engines.

10W-30 – This stuff is even thicker and should only be used in larger engines or in engines with oil leaks.

10W-40 – Again, large engines (V8 truck engines for example) and those with leaking seals and gaskets.

20W-50 – Thick and gooey, this stuff should be avoided in most vehicles. It works well as an "emergency" oil, though. Don't run this stuff if you can avoid it!

15W-40 – Don't put this stuff in your engine unless it's a diesel!
What do the numbers mean? The first number is a rating of how well an oil flows when cold. For instance, 10W-30 flows like 10-weight oil when cold, but 30-weight oil when warm. Every one of these oils has polymers in it, making it unnecessary to use "winter" or "summer" oil.

SAE Oils – While SAE oils are becoming pretty rare, they deserve to be mentioned. Also called "straight-weight" oils, these have the same viscosity no matter the outside temperature. SAE 30 flows like 30-weight winter and summer. The tradition of changing your oil type during warm and cold months comes from the time – way back when – SAE was the only option.

Synthetics – Synthetic oil can be confusing. They do last longer than conventional oils. Expect to pay more for them, though – quite a bit in some cases! Quite a few myths surround synthetic oil – most of these are just bunk, though.
Choose your oil well friends it is the life blood of your automobile.

Oil Change - DIY or not?

noreply@blogger.com (Tony Orkrench) — Mon, 18 May 2009 00:20:00 +0000

Oil me, oil me, OK Tin Man we all know how important oil is to the life of your ride. In fact it’s the life blood, but unlike blood when your oil gets dirty you can actually change it. –Man do I wish I could fix my cholesterol that easily -
So, wondering how much you should actually be paying for an oil change? You're handy with a wrench, right? Maybe you should just change the oil yourself! Oil changes are important – you do them on the recommended schedule, right?

If you're considering changing your own oil, the good news is that it isn't that difficult. You will need a few things, though. First, you'll need to make sure you have somewhere to dump that old oil. What's that? You're going to dump it in the backyard? Better not! The EPA will pounce on you faster than a fat guy on a stake. – Hey I can say that have ya ever seen me- Besides, used oil is toxic to you and the environment.

If you're going to change your own oil, you need a disposal location – most oil change or mechanic shops can help you out here. You'll also need a few other things. What do you need?

• A wrench that fits your oil drain plug – that means you're going to have to crawl under there and find out what size the bolt is.

• A new crush washer – these fit over the drain bolt and help keep oil from leaking out everywhere.

• An oil filter – never, ever change your oil without changing the filter as well you cheap skate. Most auto part stores can help you find the right oil filter size.

• An oil filter wrench – those filters can be pretty darn hard to get off by hand!

• Oil – you didn't forget the oil, did you? Do you know how much you need? Do you know what weight you need?

• A place to do the work – do you have somewhere at the house you can do the work? How are you going to get under your ride? Jacking up your vehicle with an automobile jack is just asking for serious injury. Get a set of ramps for pete sake.
Does all that sound like a great big hassle? You're right. While changing your own oil is easy enough, you'll find it can be a pain, too. In most cases, you'll actually spend just as much money – and a whole lot more time – doing it yourself.

If that doesn't appeal to you, then you'll need to find an oil change shop.
That begs the question, should you use a Jiffy Lube-type place? Maybe you should take it to a mechanic, instead. What's the better option?

Finding the right oil change shop is a precarious question. Rumors of accidents, mishaps and negligence are rampant, especially with the bargain shops – who hasn't hear horror stories about oil not being put back in the car, or oil filters left loose?

You'll need to find a shop that has a decent reputation for quality. You'll also want to consider price. Most quick-change shops have great pricing, but might have a less-than savory reputation. Mechanic shops have better reputations, but they cost more – sometimes a lot more!

You also need to make sure the shop has the type and weight of oil your ride needs. Running 10W30 in a vehicle that requires 5W20 is a short road to disaster. See if the shop has what you want, for a price you can live with.

Of course, oil change shops often offer more than just an "oil change." Some throw in vacuuming services, others change your wiper blades. Still others throw in everything but the kitchen sink. All that comes at a price!

Ultimately it’s a matter of choice does changing your own oil give you pride and satisfaction or is it simply a pain in the neck? It really comes down to that not cash.

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Transmission Problems Got you Down?

noreply@blogger.com (Tony Orkrench) — Tue, 05 May 2009 01:06:00 +0000

Car got you bogged down – literally? Is your transmission slipping faster than the ratings for Congress's performance? When that transmission stops pulling, it can be a trying time. It will invariably happen when you least expect it and when it wreaks the most havoc– an example of Murphy's Law at work in your life! Beyond the injustice of the universe – you're faced with a terrible situation. Not only are you out of a ride, stranded on the side of the road, but you'll have to figure out how to repair that ride.

Obviously, you're going to have to drop a new transmission in there – well, not you, really. Hopefully, you'll have a mechanic do the work, unless you're pretty darn handy with a wrench! Regardless, you'll have a choice to make – do you want a new transmission or do you want a remanufactured – rebuilt – transmission? The difference is pretty darn important – to your ride, your wallet and your life, as well.

If you have any warranty at all on your vehicle, you might not have a choice. Your warranty will pay for the repair and the part – after you've paid your deductible, of course. However, most warranty companies reserve the right to choose what goes into your car. Of course, if you don't have to come up with the cash for the repair, that situation is fine!

If you do have to come up with the cash, the question is a bit more pertinent. A new transmission can set you back a lot – thousands of dollars for the transmission, on top of the labor fees. A rebuilt transmission is more affordable, usually about one-half to two-thirds the price of a new transmission. The savings to your bank account can be serious.

What is a rebuilt transmission? You've heard of them – rebuilt, remanufactured, refurbished – all of these terms add up to the same thing. Basically, it's an old case with new guts – any damaged or worn gears, clutches and other pieces have been replaced and put back into the housing. It won't be shiny and new but who really cares? It's under the car anyway!

What about manufacturer warranty? Both new transmissions and rebuilt transmissions carry a warranty. Obviously, the new one will have a longer warranty – duh! Don't count out the rebuilt option yet, though! These can often have a warranty of 30,000 miles (if it's an OEM reman, that is).

So, rebuilt transmissions have better pricing AND they carry a warranty. Can it get any better? Hold onto your hats, because it can.

When your transmission is out, you're stuck – dead in the water, living off others or making do with only a single vehicle. That can seriously hurt – in many, many ways! Again, check your warranty – if you have one - many of them include rental cars.

How does a rebuilt transmission help you here? We're talking speed – rebuilt transmissions are more readily available to dealerships and mechanics. So, you'll have your transmission installed faster, putting you back on the road once more.
Of course, for the enterprising driver with a wrench and some time – you can hit a junkyard and pull your own transmission. On the other hand, this brings a whole new world of potential problems. You'll also eat up the savings paying to have the transmission dropped in – unless you're planning to do that yourself, too.
You need to get back on the road – what's life with no wheels? A rebuilt transmission gives you affordability, speed and – best of all – you don't have to do it on your own. So, when that transmission starts slipping and gears start grinding you know your best option.

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The Dealership or a Local Mechanic?

noreply@blogger.com (Tony Orkrench) — Tue, 05 May 2009 00:58:00 +0000

Some people would never dream of having their ride serviced anywhere but the dealership. Others swear by their local mechanic. Which type are you? Undecided about which is right for you? That's pretty understandable – the choice can be confusing. Know your options before plunking down a sizeable chunk of cash.

The Dealership – If you're ride is under warranty it makes sense to take it to the dealer. However, other services – even basic services – can be way more expensive with the dealership. Whether you want an oil change or something a bit more complicated, the dealership is always going to be the hardest on your bank account.
It's not uncommon to find a dealer charging $100 an hour in labor – yes, your wallet is cringing in fear right now. Top that cost off with the fact that dealer parts are far more expensive than what you'll find with a mechanic or even a parts store and you begin to see at least one of the drawbacks here – cost, cost, cost!

Are there any benefits to using a dealer? Actually, there are a few – though they might be hard to see while you're suffering from sticker shock. Your dealership has more experience dealing with your particular brand than a shade-tree mechanic will. While a mechanic might scratch their head – doing an excellent mockery of some famous Warner Bros. characters – your dealer will get right to work – in most cases.
Dealers are good for other things, too. Need a loaner car while yours is being serviced? Dealers might help you out – the mechanic is just going to laugh at you. Beyond this, dealers are the best place to have accessories put on – if OEM accessories are your thing, of course. The local mechanic might not even know where to start, but the dealer will have schematics and OEM-issued instructions unavailable to the average Joe.

The Mechanic – So, now that the dealership seems an attractive option, what does the mechanic bring to the table? Let's start with price – which is of obvious importance to you! Mechanics are far cheaper than dealerships – to the tune of several hundred dollars. The average mechanic charges about half the labor rate of a dealership.

Keeping your business with a local mechanic can also be a good thing if you have an established relationship. If you go to the same mechanic your parents used, chances are good they’ll be upfront with you. You might even get discounts on service!

Don't care a fig about OEM parts? The mechanic is your best friend, then. You'll rarely find OEM parts here – if you do, they'll be worth their weight in gold! However, if you just want your ride fixed then a mechanic is a great choice.
Tired of waiting? Take a number – you'll find that service times are about the same, unless your mechanic is really backed up. Dealerships promise faster service times, but rarely come through on those promises – yet another reason they have such mixed reputation! Your mechanic is more likely to be upfront with you – a point in their favor.

Of course, there will be times you have to go to the dealership. Got a "check engine" light or a "service engine soon" light glowing menacingly at you from the dash? Your mechanic might not be much help. Proprietary codes – when something is majorly wrong – can only be pulled by a dealership. If your mechanic says he can do it – beware. He'll be taking it to the dealership!

Choosing a mechanic is the best route for those who want to save money. The dealership might be a necessary evil, though, depending on just what's gone wrong with your ride.

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When is it time to say goodbye?

noreply@blogger.com (Tony Orkrench) — Mon, 13 Apr 2009 21:42:00 +0000

Whether you drive an old Gremlin, an ancient Jeep or a modern sedan, your relationship with your ride is complicated. Obviously, you want to make your vehicle last as long as possible – who doesn't?

Buying a used car or a new car means having another car payment . You also lose that trusted friend on the road. However, the time will come when you must part with that beloved vehicle.

How do you know when it's time to bury that car? When is it time to let your car, truck or van go to that great auto junkyard in the sky?

You can always keep a vehicle on the road, no matter how decrepit it might be if you’re willing to spend the dough. Remember that the older your vehicle becomes, the more costly the repairs will be.

If you're your dropping parts faster than you can bolt new ones on, it's time for a change! The amount in your bank account – or not, as the case may be – is the key to knowing when it's time to move on.

Why keep dumping cash into your ride if you're paying as much as a new car payment in repair fees? Of course, if you are "mechanically inclined," or have an extended warranty that time might come later than it would for someone who is not so inclined.

The best way to measure the "worth" of your ride is to make a simple comparison. If your vehicle is worth less than the cost of repairs, it's time to wave bye-bye. You may have nostalgia and memories tied up in the chrome, steel and rubber, but it is time to move on.

You've got to bring yourself to part with it; you must force yourself to see that vehicle, not as a beloved, reliable machine, but as a money pit, sucking up your funds and your time!

Eventually, the time will come when it's more trouble to keep your vehicle on the road than it is to watch it rust away in the backyard. The key is to know the situation before that time arrives. If you wait too long, you can be in a world of hurt. Imagine being stuck with a $2,000 / $3,000 / $4,000 repair bill and no way to get another vehicle!

When it becomes apparent that Betsy just isn't cutting it any more, hobble into the local dealership, crank up the computer, or crack open the paper and start looking for a new ride. Does a new or used vehicle fit into your budget? Are there other items you can cut out to make it fit.

While it might feel like a betrayal, you should probably keep an eye out for potential new cars. Know what makes and models are available and how they can benefit you – your old ride won't hold it against you!

Keep your eyes open for deals within your area. Buying from Joe down the street might be more affordable than purchasing through a dealer, though the dealership will offer financing on that used car.

Another solution is to add an extended warranty to your trusted Betsy. Warranties are available that will protect you against major repair cost even if your vehicle has 100,000 miles or more on it now. Just be sure of the coverage level and the company that is backing it. Many of the less scrupulous companies out there are under insured (some are even uninsured). Read the contract before you buy!

The decision to buy a new car or used car (or add an extended warranty ) can be an excellent option. Ownership costs are offset by warranties and the vehicle is a bit more reliable than old Betsy was. Saving cash is important – especially today. That doesn't mean you have to suffer with a ride that breaks down more often than it runs right!

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How Much Should A Brake Job Cost?

noreply@blogger.com (Tony Orkrench) — Mon, 13 Apr 2009 18:57:00 +0000

Are you confused about how much a brake job costs? I'll let you in on a little secret – so are most of us!

With the incredible number of vehicles on the road today, pricing a brake job is a lot like playing a game of Clue (for you youngsters that’s a board game, actually played off line with real people).

Of course, your brakes are no game – they're one of the most important systems on your vehicle!

So, how do you find the price on a brake job? How do you know if it’s fair? Short of calling a repair center or your local dealership – which will be more than happy to part you from your money – there are a few ways to figure out a "ballpark" estimate for that brake job. You've got to answer a few questions, of course.

• What should a brake job entail?
• How much should it cost?
• What's the price for labor?

Actually, there is no such thing as an "average" brake job. Different brands and models require different things when you replace your brake pads. You will also have different prices if you have 4-wheel disc brakes or disc in the front and drum brakes in the rear.

Of course, the minimum work performed during this type of service should be replacement of your front brake pads and a resurfacing of your front rotors. That will set you back between $100 and $250, depending on labor costs (labor costs are per hour and very greatly from $50 + or - in small markets to well over $100 in major markets).

If you have rear drums, these can often be adjusted for a minimal cost. Some centers will charge you as little as a few bucks, while others will demand $50, just to adjust the shoes. Of course, you'll hit other considerations, too – like a brick wall, if you're not careful.

Consider your average base model, front-wheel drive Honda Accord. The basic brake service should be a replacement of the front brake pads on both wheels (never replace just one side), as well as having the rotors "turned" with a brake lathe.

Turning or resurfacing, smoothes the surface of the rotor, ensuring that your brakes work properly. If you don't resurface your rotors, it's possible that hitting your brake pedal could induce vibrations that would make a cement mixer jealous.

Of course, if your rotors are too warped to be resurfaced, you'll need to replace them. This is where the pricing becomes very dicey. New rotors can run anywhere from $29 all the way up to more than $200 depending on make, model and the type of rotor you purchase.

Brake pads run a similar gamut, depending on the choice of standard OEM pads, standard aftermarket pads, ceramic pads, full-metallic pads or Kevlar pads. See why prices very so much? A full, 4-wheel brake job can run from $400 to $800 with ease, depending on the configuration of your vehicle.

Of course, other questions will plague your mind. Some of the most common questions vehicle owners have are:

• How long do brake pads last?
• Should rotor replacement be a scheduled service?
• Do calipers fail on a regular basis?
• What other brake services are essential?
• How about labor cost?

Let's address the first question: There is no easy way to predict when brake pads will wear out. It depends on many different factors, such as your braking habits, the area in which you live, the type of vehicle you drive and more. If you ride your brakes like Grandma, you'll go through pads very fast, indeed! For tips on how to make your brakes last see our blog.

When it is time to replace your pads and/or rotors (see below) check prices on line. My favorite sites are Auto Parts Giant and Parts Geek both offer outstanding prices on parts and the expertise to help you select the right ones. Even if you shop ends up providing the parts a few minutes of research can help you be sure the price is right.

To the second question: Rotors should honestly not need replacement more than a few times within the life of your ride. If you're changing rotors like a politician does positions, you might consider changing your braking habits.

About your calipers: Calipers are designed to last the life of the vehicle, though they do fail from time to time. The usual cause is due to poor driving habits, but mechanical failure can happen too. Regular service and maintenance is the best way to keep them from locking up tighter than bank vault. Note: Calipers are covered in under some Extended Warranties check your coverage or visit 100000andbeyond.com.
Other services you need: Your brake fluid is the lifeblood of your braking system. A brake fluid service helps keep your hydraulic system in good health. It makes sure your master cylinder, brake lines and calipers are working well.

Labor costs: As stated labor cost are a function of hourly rate and number of hours the repair takes. You can look up the required time (number of hours) on line here and shop your local shops for best rates. Some shops charge a flat rate – I have one locally that charges $49 for pads and rotors, and will even let me provide the parts. These can lead to the best price just make sure of the quality of work.
With a little time and research you can make sure you get the best bang -or stop - for the buck. Just make sure you don’t get taken for a ride.

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What Tires Are Right For Me?

noreply@blogger.com (Tony Orkrench) — Sun, 05 Apr 2009 03:22:00 +0000

Are you wondering what type of tires is right for you? That's pretty understandable, given the tremendous range of tire types available. Do you need mud and snow tires? Do you want touring tires? Z rated? Oversized? Undersized? Oh my aching head –

· When should I replace my tires?
· How do I know what I need?
· How much should new tires cost?
· Will Elvis return to take back his throne?

Well, this guide will help with some of those questions. It's completely up to the King if he chooses to reveal himself to us lesser mortals.

Anyway, the choice of tires can be painful and annoying. Finding the right set of tires for your vehicle is important, of course. But so is saving cash. If you know what you're doing, you can do both!

- The "When" Factor –

For those with little or no automotive experience, knowing when to replace your tires is largely guesswork. Of course, leaving it to chance is not a good choice. That thin layer of rubber is all that stands between your rear end and the road!
Check the tread if it looks like Kojak's head, there dead. (I should’ve been a poet) Actually, you can watch the tread wear if you're vigilant. Most tires have a wear indicator bar, situated within the tread – it will look like a raised, smooth bar, perpendicular to the tread pattern. If this is showing, you know you're getting close to replacement time.
Other things to look and listen for include:

· Excessive edge wear – remember, exposed wires = bad
· Spider web – If you see cracks and spider webs on the side it could be dry rot.
· Thump thump – that thumping nose you hear could be your tires (did you rotate them?)
· Balding tread – remember the reference to Kojak? We're not joking!

- The "What" Factor –

Ok, so your tires are shot – they're smoother than a baby's bottom and nowhere near as cute. Now you'll need to know what to buy.
Wait! Before you rush out and buy just any new rubber, take a few minutes to define your needs. What type of tires do you need? Answering this question will involve some Freudian tactics – it's time to delve into your inner psyche! No, we're not going to investigate your Mommy issues – we're going to figure out the type of tire you need.

The type of vehicle you drive plays the largest role here. Do you have a modern sedan? If so, you'll likely not want to slap a set of mudders on there. Do you drive a truck? Those passenger-rated tires you're eyeing are probably the wrong choice.

Driving habits also play a role. Do you have a lead foot and a sports car? Z and ZR rated tires have the speed rating you need for safety. Of course, they'll wear out faster than other types, as well.

The profusion of options on the market is considerable. For instance, if you're willing to shell out a few more greenbacks, you can put a set of touring tires on your ride. These have a square-shouldered design for better stability and comfort and usually have a better mileage warranty than other tires.

If you'll be driving in a variety of conditions, then all-season tires are your best option. Actually, all-season tires are the most common option on the market – you'll have no trouble locating a set.

Winter driving brings other considerations. If you live in a cold, snowy area, then studded snow tires are a great idea – or at least a set rated for mud and snow. Pickup trucks will benefit from LT rated tires, if they actually do work. Trucks that do little work, but just look cool can use P-rated tires.

You will also find prices on tires vary by brand, style, geographic location and even time of year. As an example, high-performance tires run from $85 to $165 each, while truck tires average between $50 and $135 each. If you want an all-season tire, you can expect to pay between $30 and $85 each. It’s important to remember to take the total cost into account things like mounting and balancing add up so look at the whole package price.

Discount centers like Sam’s club, and BJ’s are great places to price shop. But like most things the best deals are found on line. Check out the tire rack great selection and prices as well as thousands of customer reviews on all kinds of brands and types.

Another great site is Auto Parts GIANT with its 110% price guarantee and free shipping Auto Parts GIANT is hard to beat.

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Making Your Brakes Last

noreply@blogger.com (Tony Orkrench) — Sun, 05 Apr 2009 03:16:00 +0000

Brakes are kinda important right. - Well Duh - Even if the rest of your ride is in top shape, bad brakes are an enormous safety concern. They’re what make us stop when we push that little peddle on the left.

So how do we go about getting the most life out of them?

It's no secret that brakes wear out over time. However, you can do several things to slow down that wear and tear, making them last quite a bit longer. Here, you'll find a handy guide to making those brakes last, and saving you more than a little bit of cold, hard cash.

Braking Bad Braking Habits

Brake pads and rotors wear out – it's the nature of the beast. When your brake pads press on your rotors, it creates friction, which slows down your vehicle. This also wears on the pads and rotors, in the same way the contact between road and tire wears out your tire tread.
However, bad braking habits can seriously cut down on the life of your brakes. In short, your bad habits may be responsible for the problems with your brakes! How do you kick the habit?

What should you avoid?

Sounds like twelve steps… my name is Mike and I’m a bad braker….

Sudden Stops – Avoid sudden stops like Hare Krishna’s in the airport. It puts tremendous pressure on your brake pads and can warp your rotors – that’s bad - Hard, sudden stops are one of the leading causes of early brake pad failure. For those of you who jam on the brakes at the stop sign, rather than slowing down before you get there – cut it out!

Riding Your Brakes – We’ve all seen them, the drivers moving forward with the brake lights lit, even though you know they're not slowing down. The brake lights remain on as the vehicle continues down the road, leaving you shaking your head, wondering what they're doing. You might even notice a foul burning smell – you did shower, right?

They're riding their brakes. In essence, they're driving with one foot on the brake and one foot on the gas. That's bad. Even the slightest amount of pressure on the brake pedal will cause the calipers to clamp down, forcing the pads into contact with the rotors.

If you maintain this contact for a long period, your brake pads will be eaten away faster than your kid can gulp down an Oreo cookie. You will also find your rotors are a horrible blue-black in color – you've scorched them and that can be seriously expensive to fix. In short, don't ride your brakes either!

Braking Rather than Downshifting – Have you ever looked at your gearshift indicator? Did you notice those extra gears? Yes, there are more gears than just park, reverse and drive. These gears are designed for use when you are pulling a heavy load and/or going down some seriously steep hills. – So that what that other numbers mean - Quite a few drivers ignore these gears, using their brakes instead. This has the same effect as riding your brakes – it's the same thing – with the extra effect of having to hold the vehicle to a slow pace on a grade. The next time you're going down the side of a mountain or a steep hill and are uncomfortable with your speed, downshift. Stay off your bakes. Your braking system will thank you.No matter how careful you are – how much you drive like Grandma – your brakes are going to wear out eventually and need to be replaced. – More on that in my next article - That said, you can get more out of your brakes – if you use them right! Driver fault is the #1 reason brake pads fail early. So, if you stomp the brake pedal hard and fast, expect some problems from your bad habits! Be easy with your brakes and they'll reward you with extra life.

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Make Your Tires Last

noreply@blogger.com (Tony Orkrench) — Sun, 05 Apr 2009 03:02:00 +0000

Do you want to make your vehicle stand the test of time?

– That's a ridiculous question, who doesn't? –

If so, then you need to keep her looking good and in excellent health . Like most "ladies" I know, keeping her need for shoes fed can get seriously expensive. Especially if she likes those designer brands!

Just so you know, we're talking about cars here.

Anyway, "shoes," or tires for you slower folks, are one of the easiest places to cut your costs and save hundreds of dollars. It only takes a few simple, commonsense steps to make them last longer.

So, if your tires are balding faster than old Uncle Frank, we've got a little work to do. Since they haven't invented "Rogaine" for tires yet, we're just going to have to do a bit of preventative maintenance.

Rotate Them! – Tire rotation might seem like something silly, dreamt up by dealerships and repair centers to rake in more green, but it is actually very important. You should rotate them roughly every 6,000 miles, or every other oil change (if you're using conventional oil, of course!). Whether you rotate them front-to-back or use an X pattern, just doing it at all is important.

Give 'Em A Little Air! – Tires lose pressure over time; it's just the way it is. This makes them wear unevenly and much more quickly. It can also lead to a dangerous sidewall blowout – and the expense of replacing that tire! So, check your tire pressure at least every other week. It takes just seconds and saves you money – and possibly your life! And for Pete's sake, use a tire gauge! They only cost a couple of bucks and "eyeballing" them just doesn't cut it.

Keep 'Em In Line! – Alignment is just as important to tire health as anything else. The simple act of driving can knock your ride out of alignment, making her drive as crooked as a politician's promise. Check your tires for edge wear – on either the inside or outside edge, but not both. If you see your tires getting a bit thin on the edge, get it aligned and do it fast! If you see wires dangling from the edges, it's already too late.

Watch Where You're Going! – Riding on rough surfaces does more damage than just pounding out a nice beat with rocks on your exhaust pipe. It can damage the tread on your tires. Keep to paved roads – you'll stave off the day you need to shell out major bucks for new tires. Of course, not all paved roads should have that name – know where you're driving and what the road conditions are like. Construction, potholes and rough pavement will eat away at your rubber, too.
Of course, the day will come when you have to break down and buy a new set of tires for your lady. However, before you rush out to that major tire store, check your options. You might be surprised by the number of options you have – used tires and cheap tires can be better options than buying a brand new set of "designer shoes" for your little lady.

Buying a set of used tires can help you save some major green while still keeping your ride "shoed" right. Another option is to buy cheap tires from a discount retailer. Get the lowest prices, best quality name brand parts, and helpful auto parts experts at Auto Parts GIANT. Now, don't go thinking Uncle Vinnie's going to break your kneecaps if you report his tire business. Cheap tires are a killer way to get back the tread depth you need for safety and comfort, without forcing you to take out a loan for the tires you need.

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Welcome to Making it Last 101!

noreply@blogger.com (Tony Orkrench) — Sun, 29 Mar 2009 16:04:00 +0000

Welcome to Making It Last 101, your resource for making your vehicle last and getting the most out of your automobile. It’s full of answers to questions like “how do I make my tires last longer?” to “how much should I pay for a break job?” we’ll even tackle tuff topics like “Is it time to let her go?” (your car, not your wife), and "@#!%... blown engine, now what?” It’s a place to get together with others who understand that not everyone wants (or can afford) a new vehicle every few years. A place for those of us who enjoy the benefit of not having a car payment. A place to share thoughts, get advice, and laugh with friends. It’s a place for gear heads and laymen alike, for the “all knowing” car buff to the “so you gotta change oil?” (my ex) and everything in between. So if you ever wondered “what kind of oil should I use?” , “can I get a high mileage warranty for my car?”, “where can I find parts for my ______?” you found the right place. So come on in and nose around, you’ll be glad you did. Keep in mind the site is new (but our knowledge is not) and lots of great stuff will be added regularly so why don’t you bookmark us now and be sure to check back often, or better yet sign up for our email newsletter. Our blog will inform you of updated content plus give you an early peak and insiders access to information available only to subscribers, it’s free so do it today! Get the most out of your automobile and make your vehicle last 100,000 miles and beyond!

Join our e-club by clicking here! You'll receive more great information as well as 2 free special reports every vehicle owner must read!