Keep it Looking New!

Keep Your Car Looking New

Keeping your ride on the road and running great means taking care of services like oil changes and tire rotations. However, a car that runs great, but looks like junk is no fun to drive! How do you keep that ride looking new? What do you need to do to keep it smokin' hot?

If you're wondering how to doll up your ride, we've got the info you need! Keeping that ride sleek and sexy means taking care of the inside and the outside. Here, we'll break it down for you.

Exterior –

The outside of your ride should be sleek and beautiful. That means washing it – the rain doesn't count! Wash that vehicle at least once every two weeks – if you live in a dusty environment, you'll want to do it more often, though. It's also important that you find a wash that doesn't leave a waxy residue – any waxing should be done by you, not your soap!

Soap Tips –

• Don't use dish soap – your ride is not a greasy frying pan!

• Use formulated auto soaps – these have the mildest detergents and won't ruin your paint!

Waxing is important – it's what protects that sparkling paint job and keeps it from turning dingy, dull and drab. You should wax your ride at least three times per year – you can doll up your ride every day if you want, though. Wait! Before you rush out and get a tub of ordinary wax, consider a few things. Get a wax that offers sealant for your paint. Polymer-based waxes give you the best protection and none of the drawbacks found in regular wax.

Wax Tips –

• Wax that ride often – especially if you live in a harsh area.

• Clean it first – never, never wax a vehicle if you haven't thoroughly washed the thing first!

• Be prepared – to apply wax more than once if you've been a bit neglectful!
Tire shine can also be an important part of saving your ride's looks. If you search around a bit, you'll find products that offer a great wet-tire look, but also provide your tires and wheels with UV ray protection.

Tire Shine Tips –

• Spinoff – Get a shine product that doesn't spin off. Nothing looks worse than oily spinoff all over your fenders!

• UV protection – is an important part of making your tires last and keeping those rims in top shape.

Interior –

The inside of your ride needs to look just as good as the outside. Stepping into a shoddy interior after looking at a "cherry" exterior is a letdown, isn't it? Keep it clean! How do you go about it? The first thing you should do is apply some fabric protectant. Whether you've got cloth seats or supple leather upholstery, this stuff is important.

Protectant Tips –

• Get something that lasts – pay for a top brand name. Top quality protectants help you doll up your ride and keep it smokin' all the time! It also extends the life of your leather, vinyl, dash and trim.

• Clean it up – just because you've got protectant on your upholstery, it's no excuse to be lazy about the cleaning!
Dust is also an enemy. It invades the cracks and crevices, coats your dash and even gets into your audio system. Insidious doesn't even begin to describe it! Get a clean rag, the right cleaner and go to town!

Dusting Tips –

• Dust from the top down – otherwise, you'll just stir up more dust and have to do it all over again!

• Q-Tips – are great for getting into those hard to reach spots.

• Do it regularly – and you'll have a smokin' hot ride, inside and out!

Mats and carpets can sure get dirty and stained. A good shampoo a couple times a year combined with regular vacuuming can go a log way.

Carpet Tips-

• Vacuum – remember the dust buster? A portable vac makes the job quick and easy way better then lugging out your household vacuum.

• Shampoo – Just like soap buy one designed for carpets! And pre treat those stains.

• Fabric Guards – as Tony the Tiger would say…. they’re GREAT …. Get some Scotch Guard or similar product and spray it on a few times a year it makes cleaning those carpets soooo much easier.

• Dyes – If you’ve abused those mats and carpets for too long and you just can’t get them clean a little dye can do the trick. You can pick up a can of dye and spray it on just like paint. Now you’ll never get a perfect color match to the original but it will sure look better then ugly stains and a whole lot cheaper than new carpets.

• Replace – Mats are cheap –after market ones at least – replace them and if you live in a snow belt buy a cheap set for winter so you don’t ruin your good factory ones. Carpets on the other hand cost a lot and are tough to change so try the dye and for Pete sake take care of them.


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A Blown Engine

@&*#@%! A Blown Engine, Now What?

You're driving calmly down the road, minding your own business, when suddenly it happens – a hideous sound comes from the engine and smoke billows from under the hood. You're no mechanic, but you can tell it's not good.

Obviously, the first step is to get off the road – the shoulder isn't the safest place in the world, but the blacktop is no place for a smoking ride. Now that you're safely out of traffic, chances are good you are going to pop that hood and stare angrily at the engine.

You may or may not notice any damage. Without experience with these things, you can be up a creek without that proverbial paddle. Your next step is going to be having the vehicle towed to a mechanic shop, where you will sit, feeling betrayed by your once-trusted ride, until the mechanic can provide you with a diagnosis. Get that warranty information out while you're waiting. What, you don't have coverage? Uh-oh.

It feels a lot like waiting for the doctor to pronounce sentence. Finally, the mechanic emerges from the back, shaking his head. Your heart sinks like a stone. It's a blown engine, he tells you. It's going to cost $4,000 just to get back on the road!

The mechanic tells you a connecting rod was "slung" and now your engine block has a cool new piercing. In short – you're stuck – unless that warranty kicks in.
How in the heck are you supposed to come up with that kind of money? Seriously, $4,000 for an engine repair? You could pick up another used car for less money than what the mechanic wants to fix your old one. Should you bother? Should you even try to come up with it, or is it time to hang it up and get a new ride? Is that old clunker worth the cost?

If you have a good warranty, chances are you're set. You'll have to pay a deductible and the warranty will cover the rest. If you don't have a warranty, you're probably kicking yourself right now. Seriously, a high-mileage warranty can save you tens of thousands of dollars in the case of a blown engine.

In fact, a decent used car warranty can protect your wallet and get you back on the road in short order. If you don't have one of these handy deals, you're going to be stuck between a rock and a hard place. Can you afford to pay 4 G's just to get back on the road? If you can't, you're going to have to buy a new vehicle. You can't even limp home with that rod sticking out of the engine block!

We all know buying a new car is just going to saddle you with another car payment. Even if you get a used car instead of a new one, you'll still be shelling out major bucks to get back on the road.

A better option would have been to invest in an inexpensive used car warranty – that doesn't mean cheap, though! Affordable warranties protect you from hugely expensive repair bills and can help you get back on the road sooner. If you don't have warranty coverage, you may just be hoofing it for a while!

Can you get an extended warranty that's worth the cost? Absolutely, you can protect your vehicular investment easily – when you find a quality warranty.

You can tell the mechanic to hash it out with the warranty company – but only if you have a high-mileage warranty protecting you. Think of it like a bulletproof vest – it works great, but only if you have one!

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Green up your car for less!

It's a green, green world – and that can include your car. Do you want to help protect the environment, but not want to spend a ton of cash? It doesn't have to cost a fortune and you don't have to drive a Prius, either! Let the tree-huggers have their hybrids – you can make a positive impact without the hype or the payment. As a bonus, going green saves gas, gas=cash in my book and the more I save the happier I am.

What’s the best ways to green up your ride? We'll break it down for you here.

1. Oils Well That Ends Well – No, you don't have to burn vegetable oil – but what you choose to run in your ride does make a difference. Synthetic oil is a better choice for the environment – and it lasts longer in your engine! Yes, it's more expensive per oil change, but the savings in oil change frequency gives you massive greenbacks – not to mention the impact on your world.

2. A Breath of Fresh Air – Part of greening up the world is cutting down on your fuel usage. How do you do that – short of not driving at all? Changing that air filter can give you immensely better fuel consumption and green up your vehicle. Give your ride the breath of the fresh air it needs – Bonus - you'll spend less money at the pump, too!

3. Idle Engines Are the Devil's Playground – The "devil" in this case is fuel consumption and emissions. When you let your engine idle – even for a few minutes – you launch an immense amount of exhaust into the air. You also dump gas into the engine with no result. If you'll be out of your vehicle for more than a few seconds, cut it off! Idling wastes fuel, increases toxic exhaust gases and depletes the greenness of your wallet!

4. Drive Less, Save More – How many errands do you run each week? Add to that the amount of time spent commuting. Now add any extracurricular activities. Add in "emergency" driving – running out of cold ones in the fridge counts as an emergency, right? That's a lot of driving! Cut it down – you'll be surprised by how much more green you have in your wallet and how much you green up your driving habits.

5. What Does Your Ride Weigh – The heavier your ride, the more fuel it burns. Obviously, this applies to SUVs, tractor-trailers and enormous battleship-type vehicles. It also applies to the 10 tons of junk in the back of your ride. The clutter and bric-a-brac of everyday living that pile up to your ears cheats you of fuel mileage. Not only that, it puts a greater strain on your engine and increase wear and tear. Gut your car – no, put the seats back and leave the carpet alone. Take out the bowling ball, golf clubs, and other extraneous weight and you'll save, and green up your ride.

6. Reduce Your Resistance – No, it's not an alien invasion – no green men are demanding to be taken to your leader. It's a new type of tire – low rolling resistance tires. They're made of harder stuff than your average tire, thus giving you better fuel economy. You'll also find they last a lot longer, give you more savings. I’ll warn you though some people say they ride different so take a ride first.

Do you have to be a card-carrying eco-prophet? No, but you'll be able to green up your automobile with these simple steps. Of course, feel free to go as green as you like, but you don't have to be the next Al Gore.

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Oil, Oil, Everywhere!

I'm sure you're familiar with oil – "black gold, Texas tea." Today, oil isn't really black – unless you've just stumbled on a pool of crude oil in your backyard. In that case, congratulations – you're now rich. For the rest of us, we'll have to settle for the bottled variety. Row upon row of different weights, types and constituents await you at your local auto parts store.

No one contests the importance of oil – not changing your oil is the quickest way to murder your ride. Having your oil changed on a regular schedule is obviously important. It keeps your engine lubed and running right giving you peace of mind. If you're like most of us, keeping that ride running is more than important.

When it comes time for an oil change, knowing what type of oil you need is important, obviously. Even more than knowing you like your whiskey on the rocks or your vodka with a twist, you'll need to know what "flavor" of oil your ride needs.

What? Isn't motor oil the same thing? You mean there more differences than the color of the bottles or the brand on the front? Yep – your choices in motor oil are now more confusing than trying to figure out a politician's stance on taxes.

Discovering the type of oil you need might be somewhat difficult. In some cases, a simple glance under the hood can tell you. Some automakers have taken to putting the required oil weight on the oil filler cap. Use this, rather than what you think your ride should use. Remember, chances are your automaker knows a bit more about the engine than you do.

Of course, if your oil cap says nothing more than "oil" or you find yourself in special circumstances, you'll need to know what's out there. Here's a rundown on what you'll find.

0-Wieght Oils – These are the thinnest of the thin and are usually used in high-performance applications.

5W-20 – Usually a conventional/synthetic blend, this is a very lightweight oil used in 4-cylinder engines. Honda is famous for using this in their vehicles.

5W-30 – Available as conventional or full synthetic, this is a little heavier than 5W20, but still a great choice for smaller engines.

10W-30 – This stuff is even thicker and should only be used in larger engines or in engines with oil leaks.

10W-40 – Again, large engines (V8 truck engines for example) and those with leaking seals and gaskets.

20W-50 – Thick and gooey, this stuff should be avoided in most vehicles. It works well as an "emergency" oil, though. Don't run this stuff if you can avoid it!

15W-40 – Don't put this stuff in your engine unless it's a diesel!
What do the numbers mean? The first number is a rating of how well an oil flows when cold. For instance, 10W-30 flows like 10-weight oil when cold, but 30-weight oil when warm. Every one of these oils has polymers in it, making it unnecessary to use "winter" or "summer" oil.

SAE Oils – While SAE oils are becoming pretty rare, they deserve to be mentioned. Also called "straight-weight" oils, these have the same viscosity no matter the outside temperature. SAE 30 flows like 30-weight winter and summer. The tradition of changing your oil type during warm and cold months comes from the time – way back when – SAE was the only option.

Synthetics – Synthetic oil can be confusing. They do last longer than conventional oils. Expect to pay more for them, though – quite a bit in some cases! Quite a few myths surround synthetic oil – most of these are just bunk, though.
Choose your oil well friends it is the life blood of your automobile.

Oil Change - DIY or not?

Oil me, oil me, OK Tin Man we all know how important oil is to the life of your ride. In fact it’s the life blood, but unlike blood when your oil gets dirty you can actually change it. –Man do I wish I could fix my cholesterol that easily -
So, wondering how much you should actually be paying for an oil change? You're handy with a wrench, right? Maybe you should just change the oil yourself! Oil changes are important – you do them on the recommended schedule, right?

If you're considering changing your own oil, the good news is that it isn't that difficult. You will need a few things, though. First, you'll need to make sure you have somewhere to dump that old oil. What's that? You're going to dump it in the backyard? Better not! The EPA will pounce on you faster than a fat guy on a stake. – Hey I can say that have ya ever seen me- Besides, used oil is toxic to you and the environment.

If you're going to change your own oil, you need a disposal location – most oil change or mechanic shops can help you out here. You'll also need a few other things. What do you need?

• A wrench that fits your oil drain plug – that means you're going to have to crawl under there and find out what size the bolt is.

• A new crush washer – these fit over the drain bolt and help keep oil from leaking out everywhere.

• An oil filter – never, ever change your oil without changing the filter as well you cheap skate. Most auto part stores can help you find the right oil filter size.

• An oil filter wrench – those filters can be pretty darn hard to get off by hand!

• Oil – you didn't forget the oil, did you? Do you know how much you need? Do you know what weight you need?

• A place to do the work – do you have somewhere at the house you can do the work? How are you going to get under your ride? Jacking up your vehicle with an automobile jack is just asking for serious injury. Get a set of ramps for pete sake.
Does all that sound like a great big hassle? You're right. While changing your own oil is easy enough, you'll find it can be a pain, too. In most cases, you'll actually spend just as much money – and a whole lot more time – doing it yourself.

If that doesn't appeal to you, then you'll need to find an oil change shop.
That begs the question, should you use a Jiffy Lube-type place? Maybe you should take it to a mechanic, instead. What's the better option?

Finding the right oil change shop is a precarious question. Rumors of accidents, mishaps and negligence are rampant, especially with the bargain shops – who hasn't hear horror stories about oil not being put back in the car, or oil filters left loose?

You'll need to find a shop that has a decent reputation for quality. You'll also want to consider price. Most quick-change shops have great pricing, but might have a less-than savory reputation. Mechanic shops have better reputations, but they cost more – sometimes a lot more!

You also need to make sure the shop has the type and weight of oil your ride needs. Running 10W30 in a vehicle that requires 5W20 is a short road to disaster. See if the shop has what you want, for a price you can live with.

Of course, oil change shops often offer more than just an "oil change." Some throw in vacuuming services, others change your wiper blades. Still others throw in everything but the kitchen sink. All that comes at a price!

Ultimately it’s a matter of choice does changing your own oil give you pride and satisfaction or is it simply a pain in the neck? It really comes down to that not cash.

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Transmission Problems Got you Down?

Car got you bogged down – literally? Is your transmission slipping faster than the ratings for Congress's performance? When that transmission stops pulling, it can be a trying time. It will invariably happen when you least expect it and when it wreaks the most havoc– an example of Murphy's Law at work in your life! Beyond the injustice of the universe – you're faced with a terrible situation. Not only are you out of a ride, stranded on the side of the road, but you'll have to figure out how to repair that ride.

Obviously, you're going to have to drop a new transmission in there – well, not you, really. Hopefully, you'll have a mechanic do the work, unless you're pretty darn handy with a wrench! Regardless, you'll have a choice to make – do you want a new transmission or do you want a remanufactured – rebuilt – transmission? The difference is pretty darn important – to your ride, your wallet and your life, as well.

If you have any warranty at all on your vehicle, you might not have a choice. Your warranty will pay for the repair and the part – after you've paid your deductible, of course. However, most warranty companies reserve the right to choose what goes into your car. Of course, if you don't have to come up with the cash for the repair, that situation is fine!

If you do have to come up with the cash, the question is a bit more pertinent. A new transmission can set you back a lot – thousands of dollars for the transmission, on top of the labor fees. A rebuilt transmission is more affordable, usually about one-half to two-thirds the price of a new transmission. The savings to your bank account can be serious.

What is a rebuilt transmission? You've heard of them – rebuilt, remanufactured, refurbished – all of these terms add up to the same thing. Basically, it's an old case with new guts – any damaged or worn gears, clutches and other pieces have been replaced and put back into the housing. It won't be shiny and new but who really cares? It's under the car anyway!

What about manufacturer warranty? Both new transmissions and rebuilt transmissions carry a warranty. Obviously, the new one will have a longer warranty – duh! Don't count out the rebuilt option yet, though! These can often have a warranty of 30,000 miles (if it's an OEM reman, that is).

So, rebuilt transmissions have better pricing AND they carry a warranty. Can it get any better? Hold onto your hats, because it can.

When your transmission is out, you're stuck – dead in the water, living off others or making do with only a single vehicle. That can seriously hurt – in many, many ways! Again, check your warranty – if you have one - many of them include rental cars.

How does a rebuilt transmission help you here? We're talking speed – rebuilt transmissions are more readily available to dealerships and mechanics. So, you'll have your transmission installed faster, putting you back on the road once more.
Of course, for the enterprising driver with a wrench and some time – you can hit a junkyard and pull your own transmission. On the other hand, this brings a whole new world of potential problems. You'll also eat up the savings paying to have the transmission dropped in – unless you're planning to do that yourself, too.
You need to get back on the road – what's life with no wheels? A rebuilt transmission gives you affordability, speed and – best of all – you don't have to do it on your own. So, when that transmission starts slipping and gears start grinding you know your best option.

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The Dealership or a Local Mechanic?

Some people would never dream of having their ride serviced anywhere but the dealership. Others swear by their local mechanic. Which type are you? Undecided about which is right for you? That's pretty understandable – the choice can be confusing. Know your options before plunking down a sizeable chunk of cash.

The Dealership – If you're ride is under warranty it makes sense to take it to the dealer. However, other services – even basic services – can be way more expensive with the dealership. Whether you want an oil change or something a bit more complicated, the dealership is always going to be the hardest on your bank account.
It's not uncommon to find a dealer charging $100 an hour in labor – yes, your wallet is cringing in fear right now. Top that cost off with the fact that dealer parts are far more expensive than what you'll find with a mechanic or even a parts store and you begin to see at least one of the drawbacks here – cost, cost, cost!

Are there any benefits to using a dealer? Actually, there are a few – though they might be hard to see while you're suffering from sticker shock. Your dealership has more experience dealing with your particular brand than a shade-tree mechanic will. While a mechanic might scratch their head – doing an excellent mockery of some famous Warner Bros. characters – your dealer will get right to work – in most cases.
Dealers are good for other things, too. Need a loaner car while yours is being serviced? Dealers might help you out – the mechanic is just going to laugh at you. Beyond this, dealers are the best place to have accessories put on – if OEM accessories are your thing, of course. The local mechanic might not even know where to start, but the dealer will have schematics and OEM-issued instructions unavailable to the average Joe.

The Mechanic – So, now that the dealership seems an attractive option, what does the mechanic bring to the table? Let's start with price – which is of obvious importance to you! Mechanics are far cheaper than dealerships – to the tune of several hundred dollars. The average mechanic charges about half the labor rate of a dealership.

Keeping your business with a local mechanic can also be a good thing if you have an established relationship. If you go to the same mechanic your parents used, chances are good they’ll be upfront with you. You might even get discounts on service!

Don't care a fig about OEM parts? The mechanic is your best friend, then. You'll rarely find OEM parts here – if you do, they'll be worth their weight in gold! However, if you just want your ride fixed then a mechanic is a great choice.
Tired of waiting? Take a number – you'll find that service times are about the same, unless your mechanic is really backed up. Dealerships promise faster service times, but rarely come through on those promises – yet another reason they have such mixed reputation! Your mechanic is more likely to be upfront with you – a point in their favor.

Of course, there will be times you have to go to the dealership. Got a "check engine" light or a "service engine soon" light glowing menacingly at you from the dash? Your mechanic might not be much help. Proprietary codes – when something is majorly wrong – can only be pulled by a dealership. If your mechanic says he can do it – beware. He'll be taking it to the dealership!

Choosing a mechanic is the best route for those who want to save money. The dealership might be a necessary evil, though, depending on just what's gone wrong with your ride.

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